Kastromenes
Kastromenes were Venetian aristocrats who descended from the old castle in Xombourgo, and lived in the district of Ano Vrysi in Chora of Tinos.
Often taking a balancing role in dealing with intractable issues concerning both the island’s relationship with the conquerors and the relationships between the two main dogmas of the time the Orthodox and the Catholics, they were widely known in the local community as “Androutses”.
The term “Kastromenes” was given to them later, when during the economic decline of Ano Vrysi, many of them gradually moved together in the castle. A three-storey building of 400 square metres, with each floor having access to a street. Being unmarried or widows they moved their dowries in the castle creating a short of small palace.
Possessing, due to their noble origin, the best of both their time and the time of their ancestors, they formed an amazing place filled with multiculturalism, art and luxury. Characteristics of the bourgeoisie of the 18th, 19th and 20th century.
“Kastromenes were exceptionally dynamic and versatile women of Tinos, who remained in the collective memory and folklore language as Androutses (word meaning manly women).”
“Achievers and widely respected they managed to solve difficult and delicate issues, either having to do with the island’s relationship with the conquerors, or the peculiar problems arising between the two main dogmas, Catholics and Orthodox.
Until the beginning of the 18th century Kastromenes lived in the old town, enclosed within the walls of Exomburgus in the centre of the island. From 1715 onwards, when the new town of Tinos was acquired, they inhabited Chora, built by the sea. The fear of pirates had by then almost completely disappeared.”
“The capital was divided into two large neighbourhoods. Τhe two implicit but powerful criteria for classification into each of them were origin and money, with the latter one becoming the primary factor. Before thw power of money, not only origin but also religion lost its power.”
“All the aristrocratic “remants” of previous conquerors resided from Ano Vrisi to the upper alleys of Vari where distinctive scents from the sea were mirrored and exchanged. Venetians, Russians, Asia Minor Greeks, noble Greeks, locals and foreigners from the Turkish-occupied parts of Greece had found refuge in the serenity of Galinotati. In Kato Vrysi though poor villagers, refugees and starkers the so called “tsouploukia” (ciplak= naked in Turkish) remained. At least thats how the rich of Ano Vrisi liked to call them.
In those old days when they were shut in Xombourgo and their life depended on the surrounding villages, they were extremely united. The newly built Chora though is what transformed them into rather arrogant snooties. Outside the borders of Ano Vrisi the look was becoming judgemental and sarcastic”.
“Even though they were originally called Androutses (manly women) as they were the only ones who knew how to solve unsolvable problems, in the lower neighbourhood they were now called Kastromenes. A synonym of harshness, snootiness and narrow mindness whithin the borders of the new castles of Ano Vrisi. The borders they themselves had built and the ones they were now hunkered in.”
“This is where my three volume book “Kastromenes” takes place. In these two historic neighbourhoods of Ano & Kato Vrisi. In a closed but at the shame time so open island society throughout the twentieth century. In a great theater play where the alleys, the cobbled streets and castles and the one-storey houses are this play’s curtains. In a time when everything was so different, could it possibly still become the same and untoucable if only money suddenly filled the empty pockets of this lower-class neighbourhood.
You are my only joy
oh almighty para (former Turkish word for coins)
You turn the crooked to straight
And the bad you turn to good
The Anthem of Ano Vrisi
The music was different between the two neghbourhoods. The mere hearing of the music of the Katovrisians could be called a bad tasteful interference or even insult and insult in more extreme cases by the charwomen, who had their troubadours and who, with mandolins and guitars, were more reminiscent of Eptanisa and Naples, within the walls of the upper neighbourhood. Even the steps that the musicians would take, were measured and careful, in the effort to imprison even the sound in the serenades, lest it should go further, and reach ears unworthy to hear.”
“The wind is with us today”. That is what the women of Ano Vrisi used to say at weddings, engagements and christenings, when this atmosphere could not reach Kato Vrysi.
“The less their ears hear, the less our eyes will want to see. They, my eyes, are so shameless that you might see them, not just drunk at your doorstep, but even in your bed. You read in the Echo about the disgraceful things they did in Holy Trinity Church when they were drunk, raising a ruckus every now and then and disturbing our saints with their shouting! My God, and it’s also the season of the early must wine, which whoever drinks doesn’t know what’s happening. Ugh, strong vinegar on my mouth for mentioning them, I hope I don’t see them in front of me!”
In Αno Vrisi luxury houses,where princes and kings had danced, slave girls from the villages and even foreigners depending on their acting abilities imitated the comic incidents of both Kato and Ano Vrisi”.